Monday, February 23, 2015

Tirunelveli Region Travelogue (Pandyan Yatra 2015) Part 2.2: Malayadikurichi Cave Temple and Sankaranarayanar Kovil

Mahadeva swamy Cave Temple, Malaiyadikurichi
Refer Picasa Album for more photographs on  Malaiyadikurchi
After lunch at Sankarankovil we continued our travel to Malaiyadikurichi Rock-cut cave. From Sankarankovil we traveled towards Puliankudi (புளியங்குடி) road and took diversion at Mullikulam and further proceeded via Thalaivankottai to reach Malaiyadikurichi village. The rock-cut cave is located towards northern side at the outskirts of the village on a rock slope of the hillock.

Name: Mahadeva swamy Cave Temple, Malaiyadikurichi (மலையடிக்குறிச்சி)
Presiding Deity: Mahadeva swamy (மஹாதேவ ஸ்வாமி) (Lord Shiva)
Consort: Marakathavalli Amman (மரகதவல்லி அம்மன்) appears in a separate sanctum. (Later addition)
Date of Visit: 23rd January 2015 between 03.30 and 05.00 am.
Category: Early Pandya Rock-cut cave at Malaiyadikurichi
Architecture Style: Early Pandya style

Architecture: The Malaiyadikurichi rock-cut cave temple consists of a rock-cut sanctum, a mukhamandpa (முகமண்டபம்) or the rectangular pavilion (hall) resting on pillars, facade of the cave, and the structural mahamandapa (மகாமண்டபம்) (an open pavilion (hall) resting on pillars) all arranged consecutively facing east..


The cave temple is surrounded  by the perimeter wall. The entrance to the mahamandapa is seen both on the east and the south. Two Nandhis (நந்தி) images facing the sanctum are located before the eastern entrance. Also there is another Nandhi image facing the sanctum of the consort is located at the southern entrance.

South Entrance showing Nandhis
The pillared mahamandapam or entrance pavilion (hall),  5.70 mts in the east - west and 5.17 mts in the south - north directions, was an addition made in the frontage to the rock-cut cave temple during the Nayaka Rule. The conspicuous components of the mahamandapam basement are upanam, kantha with padha, and pattika or peruvajana. The walls sectioned by brahmakanta (square) pilasters and above the pilasters there are vettu potikas holding the prastara components such as uttira (beam), vajanam, valabhi and kapotha with kudus. The flight of two steps leads to the mahamandapam. was an addition made in the frontage built during the Pandya Rule

Pillared Mahamandapam with Nandhi

The pilasters (door frames) at the eastern and southern entrances bear small nagabandhas, lotus medallion and torana. The roof of the mahamandapam is supported by pillars segmented as three squares with kattu in the middle. Above the pillars, vettu potikas extend its limbs to support prastara components - uttiram, vajana and valabhi. 
Sanctum of consort Marakathavalli Amman: South facing sanctum has upa-peetam, wall without pada, uttiram, vajanam, valabhi and kapotham. The front wall of this sanctum show inscriptions in fragments. Also there are inscriptions on the faces of pillars and there are few inscriptions on the northern wall. Few inscription stones re-fixed on the wall in an inverted direction during renovation. 

Goddess Marakathavalli appears wearing jatamakuta and the right hand holding the flower and the left hand rested on the lap.

Marakathavalli Amman
Facade: Two pillars and two pilasters supports facade. Comparing the upper brahmakanta (square) the lower brahmakanta (square) and kattu are larger. Except  western face of the square pillar, all the faces are decorated with circular medallions with variety of flower patterns - lotus whorls or kodikarukku (leaf pattern). One of the circular medallion is decorated with lotus flower whorls and an image at the center appears in lalithasanam posture with palm leaf coil ear ornament, haram with pendant, short robe around waist and the breast band. The image appear seated and resting its right hand on a pillow. Two chauri bearers also appear. The medallions in the eastern upper faces of the pilaster are also decked with lotus flower whorls. The upper northern face of the pilaster at southern wall possess makara medallion surrounded by kodikarukku (foliate leaf pattern) motif. Similarly the pilaster at northern wall is decorated with medallion with swan (annam) motif at the center.

Lotus Medallion
Kodikarukku

Kodikarukku
Kodikarukku
Lotus Medallion with center figure

Kodikarukku with swan

The taranga potikas with unique coiled edges  and broad median patta rest on pillars and pilasters. The coiled pattern taranga potikas appear unique and different from Tirumalapuram taranga potikas. The potikas support the prastara elements, like uttiram vajana and valabhi, running adjoining roof. The kapota extends out and joins with mahamandapa roof.

Taranga Potika mid-band
Mukhamandapa: The facade extends to the rectangular mukha mandapa which measures 5.32 mts in north-south and 1.91 mts in east-west directions. The unifloor (evenly paved) forms part of the facade as well as mukhamandapa. The lateral walls and roof are forming part of mother rock and they appear plain and simple. The northern part of the wall bears the inscription of the Pandya king Sri Vallabha. The sanctum is excavated from the mid-western wall and appear as the projection. Two shallow niches (enclosed by two square pilasters) are carved on the western wall one on each side to the sanctum. The northern niche shows the traces bas relief image as a silhouette. Looks like a four armed human mounted on elephant and the umbrella and chauris are visible. The southern niche also shows the traces of bas relief image as a silhouette. Appears like a divine form and the bird seated on a stem of twiner is visible.

4 Armed Human Mounted on Elephant
Divine Form in Niche
Sanctum: The 41 cm high plinth (padabhanda adishtanam) with components of jagadi, vritta (rounded) kumuda, kantha flanked kampa without pada and pattika. The padas bear vedikas, vedikantha and kampa. The front wall of the sanctum bears two shallow koshtas one on either side. The two koshtas bear the traces of scrapped bas relief images. Both the bas relief images could be the dwarapalakas. The flight of steps leading to the sanctum also appears to have damaged. Hence new steps added at later date.

Sanctum & Niche Fig. Erased
 Makara Torana: The ornate Makara Torana (Capricorn Arch or festoon) carved out of a single stone with four opposed fierce makara-heads (crocodile heads) adorns above the entrance of the sanctum. It reminds us the Pallava style Makara torana at the Satrumallesvara rock-cut cave temple at Dalavanur and Draupadi ratha at Mamallapuram. Two opposing capricon heads, (facing north and south) are carved at the center of the door lintel and they appear spitting warriors (in miniature size) holding swords and shields. A male image seated on lotus flower flanked by two chauris is shown within the floral ring located at the center between two makara heads. The parallel pair of opposing makara heads are placed one each in the southern and northern corners of the festoon. The intricately coiled feathers appear spread across the entire door lintel.

Makara Torana (4 opposed Capricorn Heads)

Makara Torana: Center Figure
Makara Torana: Figure at Side
Makara Torana: Figure enlarged
 The rectangular sanctum cell (measurement: 1.71 mts height x 1.47 mts width x 1.63 mts length) holds a monolithic Shivalingam with square avudaiyar (ஆவுடையார்). The sanctum is simple and plain and devoid of any ornamentation. The rectangular avudaiyar measures about 0.74 mts in width and 0.41 mts in length and vesara (cylindrical) bana measures 0.29 mts in height and the plinth of the avudaiyar is composed with the elements like upana, athopadmavari (string of inverted lotus), kantha with kampa, urdhva padmavari (string of lotus), pattika with kampa. The gomukha (கோமுகம்) is seen on the northern side of the avudaiyar with a spout like formation.

Inscription:  The rock-cut cave is rich in inscriptions dating from the 7th century A.D. to 10th century A.D.

A Tamil (script) inscription is carved on the eastern face of the potika of the the northern pillar.  It stands as the unique record about the excavation of the cave temple by Sathan Eran of Sevur (சேவூர் சாத்தன் ஈரன்) for Pandya King Ko maran Sendan (கோ மாறன் சேந்தன்) during the king's seventeenth regnal year i.e, 637 A.D. It helps us to ascertain the exact date of the cave temple.
 
Ko maran Sendhan: Inscription
Inscription Northern Wall: Reversely built

Two inscriptions are found on the northern wall.  The royal order was issued to Devakanmi (தேவகன்மி) and Sri Maheswara kankani (மஹேஸ்வர கண்காணி) serving in the 'Pinakkarukkum Mahadeva' temple (பிணக்கறுக்கும் மஹாதேவர் கோவில்) vide inscription  dated in the 3rd regnal year of the Pandya king Sri Vallabha (ஸ்ரீ வல்லபன்). The inscription mentions Malaiyadikurichi as the Thenpitakai (தென்பிடாகை) of the Sri Paranthaka Chaturvedimangalam (ஸ்ரீ பராந்தக சதுர்வேதிமங்கலம்) of Arinattu Brahmadesam (ஆரிநாட்டு பிரம்மதேசம்). The royal order also mentions about the land tax exemptions (நிலவரி விலக்கு) to the piece of lands already gifted for the daily puja rituals (திருப்படிமாற்றுள்ளிட்ட நித்த நிவந்தம்) of Mahadeva temple by the Sri Vallabha and his father.   

Another inscription dated in the 11th regnal year on the 143rd day registers the gift of Ammaikkulam (அம்மைக்குளம்).

The inscriptions on the faces of the pillars in the mahamanadapa mentions the names such as Konamalai Iramanarayana Pillai (கோணமலை இராமநாராயண பிள்ளை),  Patpanatha Pillai (பற்பநாத   பிள்ளை) and Palaimutram Chittan (பாலைமுற்றம்  சித்தன்).

Another royal order was issued to Devakanmis (தேவகன்மி) and Shiva-brahmins (சிவபிராமணர்கள் ) of this temple vide inscription dated in the 12th regnal year of the Pandya King Maravarman Sundarapandyan II (இரண்டாம் மாறவர்மன் சுந்தரபாண்டியன்) (1238-1251).

One more inscription registers the tax exemption to the village called Samanthanallur (சாமந்தநல்லூர்) gifted already by one Chokkanar Samanthan (சொக்கனார் சாமந்தன்) for daily puja rituals (சந்திகால திருப்படிமாற்றுள்ளிட்ட நித்த நிவந்தம்).

It is learned from fragments of inscriptions about the land measuring stick (நில அளவைக்கோல்) called 'Virapandyan kol (வீரபாண்டியன் கோல்) (stick), Pannirendadi kol (பன்னிரெண்டடிக் கோல்) (12 feet measuring stick) as well as few names of the Pandya irrigation canals and tanks and the names of the officials of the Pandya kingdom.

Period: The inscription records the date as 17th regnal year (637 A.D.) and the name of the Pandya king Ko maran Sendhan (கோ மாறன் சேந்தன்) who was instrumental for the excavation of this cave temple. Hence the same date could be assignable to this rock-cut cave.

Getting there

Malaiyadikurichi PIN: 627755, is a small village located near Dharugapuram (தாருகாபுரம்) in the taluk of Sivagiri (சிவகிரி), division of Kovilpatti, district of Tirunelveli, in the State of Tamil Nadu. From Sankarankovil Malaiyadikurichi can be reached by traveling on the Sankarankovil - Puliangudi road and take diversion at 13.4 km and proceed Dharugapuram via Thalaivankottai (தலைவன்கோட்டை).  Puliyankudi , Sivagiri , Sankarankoil and Rajapalayam are the nearby Cities to Malayadikuruchi. Malaiyadikurichi is located about 17 km from Sankarankovil; 09 km from Puliyankudi; 11 km from Sivagirit and 30 km from Rajapalayam. It is located 75 km towards North from District head quarters Tirunelveli. From Chennai it would be around 614 km.

By Road: This is a small village hence you may not get proper and regular transport, so arrange a taxi from whichever town you plan to visit here.

Railway station: Sivakasi Railway Station is major railway station 53 KM near to Malayadikuruchi

Airport: Tuticorin Airport- 100 km; Madurai Airport   111 km and Trivandrum International Airport- 112 km

Reference

  1. Inscriptions Tells Tales. Pradeep Chakravarthy. The Hindu Jaunuary 14, 2011
  2. மலையடிக்குறிச்சி குடைவரையும் கல்வெட்டுக்களும். தென்மாவட்டக் குடைவரைகள். மு. நளினி, இரா. கலைக்கோவன். டாக்டர். இராசமாணிக்கானார் வரலாற்றாய்வு மையம். திருச்சிராப்பள்ளி.  pp. 81 - 97

Sankaranarayanar Temple, Sankarankovil

Refer Picasa album for more pictures on Sankaranarayanar Temple
After visiting the rock-cut cave Malaiyadikurichi we returned back to Sankarankovil by 05.30 pm. As there was enough time, we thought of visiting the Sankaranarayanar Temple. The temple was not included in our itinerary.

Prime deity: Sankara Linga Swamy aka. Sankaranaaraayana Swamy
Procession Deity: -     
Goddes / Consort: Gomathi Amman
Holy Tree:: Punnai (Botanical Name - Calophyllum inophyllum)
Holy Water: Naga Sunai theertham
Historical Name: Poo Kailaayam, Punnai Vanam, Seeraasapuram, Seeraasai, Vaaraasaipuram, Koozhai Nagar.
Date of visit: 23 January 2015 from 06.00 to 08.00 pm

Temple Tower
Facade
Mandapam
Sankaranarayana Shrine: This temple is the representation of fusion of two Hindu faiths Saivism and Vaishnavism. The name Sankara joining with the name Narayana has given rise to Lord Sankaranarayana.  The Lord  is the combined manifestation of Siva and Vishnu (half - Lord Shiva and the other half - Lord Vishnu) and therefore the sanctum houses the deity by the name Sankaranarayanan, which is Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu grace the devotees together.  Lord Sankaranarayana shrine is in between the shrines of Lord Shiva and Gomathi Amman.

Lord Shiva is fond of holy bath or ablution (Abhishekam) - the process of bathing Shivalinga with the prescribed eleven ingredients. At this shrine holy bath is offered to to Lord Chandramouleeswara the Spatika Shivalinga or crystal Shivalinga. Lord Vishnu is Alankara Priyar (Desirous of ornamentation). Hence Narayana form of this shrine have elaborate alankaram (decoration ceremony).

Lord Sankaralingam Shrine: Lord Sakaralingam (Shivalingam) appears in a separate sanctum.

Gomathi Amman Shrine: In Sanskrit 'Go' means cow and 'Mathi' means moon. Goddess Ambica is named as Gomathi since she wears a face as radiant as the Moon and being the custodian of cows. For Gomathi, Avudaiyambikai' is the equivalent term in Tamil. Goddess is decorated with flowers on Mondays and appears with golden skirts on Fridays. Sri Chakra (Agna Chakra), personifying the glory and power of Shakti, is instituted either under the peeta or in front of Gomathi Amman. 

Legend: The temple is full of legends. Sambha and Padma (Two serpent kings kept worshiping Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu respectively) and they wanted to understand as to who was superior Hari or Shiva ? It is at this temple that they were shown that Shiva and Hari are the same (ஹரியும் சிவனும் ஒன்னு).

Manikkireevan, a deva took birth as a Paraiyan (out caste) after being cursed by Goddess Parvathi. He was known as Kavaraparaiyan. By chance he demolished a snake pit and later found a snake and a Shivalingam inside the pit. He got panicked after seeing snake pit and rushed to inform King Ukkira Pandya. During the same time Ukkira Pandya's  elephant also fell into a pit and could not move. Following this the King also heard the voice of Lord Shiva directing him to construct a temple at the spot.

Manikkreevan
Manikkreevan

Architecture

One of the  huge temple complex (4.5 acre) that can be found in the district of Tirunelveli and dedicated to Sankaranarayana. Temple architecture under the Nayaks is quite detailed and elaborate. The temple has a 9 tier imposing Rajagopuram.  This temple is surrounded by high perimeter walls and the gopuram has many beautiful stucco images. 

The large courtyards surrounding the three sanctums of this temple. The temple tower is covered from top to bottom with a vast number of heavily stuccoed images of the Hindu pantheon. The pillars in the mandapas depict life size sculptures - Rathi, Manmadha, Kuravan, Manakkreevan and others. The beautiful fresco paintings adorning the sanctum walls and mandapa ceiling. The stone idol of Nataraja is unique. Lord Narasimha finds a place in koshta in lieu of Lingodbhavar. Nandhi before the sanctum is under a Rudraksha Pandal-tent. 

Ornated Wall
Paintings around Sanctum

Inscription: The construction of this temple was commenced at 1022 A.D. by Pandya king Ukkira Pandyan.

Unique features:

  1. One of the Pancha Bootha(five elements) Sthalas in the South Pandya country.
  2. People believe that the holy Sand from the anthill (Puttrumann)  from this temple has therapeutic powers which has a holistic way of healing skin diseases  .
  3. Devotees believe that Sankarankoil‘s Nagasunai (sacred tank) have been dug by serpent kings named Paduman and Sangam which has a miraculous power to heal those who bathe there.


Festival: Adi - Thapasu Temple falls in Auguest, are celebrated for 12 days with gaiety. 

How to Get there
Sankaranarayanaswamy Temple is located in Sankarankoil Town, Tirunelveli Distirict. It is located 33 km south of Rajapalayam and 120 km south of Madurai and 56 Km NorthWest of Thirunelveli and about 40 kms east of Western ghat Hills.

Train: Sankarankoil is situated in the train route from Chennai to Quilon and shencottai.

Youtube: Sankaran Kovil * Shiva & Vishnu as Sankaranarayanar Selvaganapathy S

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Tirunelveli Region Travelogue (Pandyan Yatra 2015) Part 2.1: Virasigamani and Tirumalapuram Cave Temples


On 22 January 2015 at 08.10 pm our Pandyan Yatra commenced from Egmore Railway station  and a team of 24 participants boarded the Nellai Express bound for Tirunelveli.   Our train reached Kovilpatti by 07 15 am next morning. Initially we planned to stay at Kovilpatti itself and visit Kazhugumalai. Since there was the marriage function of a local VIP, our hotel stay was shifted to Tirunelveli. The drivers of our two cabs  were waiting at Kovilpatti station. From Kovilpatti we continued our Yatra by road to Tirunelveli and reached our hotel at Tirunelveli at 08.15 am. After bath we finished the complimentary breakfast and set out for the day’s journey by around 9:30 am.

We have planned to travel between Chennai and Tirunelveli by train in both directions and to cover about twenty places in five days by 12 passenger van. A 12 seater van is the perfect solution for groups who want to take a long road trip and the van trip was exciting, rewarding, and, at times, thoroughly testing way to travel.

Day 1: Sankarankovil Region: 

Sankarankovil is a Taluk in Tirunelveli District of Tamil Nadu State, India. Pandyans, Cholas, Cheras etc ruled Sankarankovil region. Portions of Sankarankoil Taluk have the rich, fertile black soil which is highly suitable for cotton cultivation. Cotton is being cultivated mainly in Sankarankovil taluk. Alluvial gypsum occurs in the Sankarankoil taluk. the mineral is being utilized chiefly of cement manufacture. Sankarankoil is the second largest town and taluk headquarters in Tirunelveli district, Tamil Nadu. We planned to cover Malaiyadikurichi cave, Tirumalapuram cave and Singampatti Zamin Palace. Due to paucity of time we have cancelled our visit to Singampatti Zamin palace. Instead we included the Virasigamani Rock-cut cave. Our first stop was Virasigamani Rock-cut cave.

Virasigamani Rock-cut cave

Name: Kailayanathar Cave Temple, Virasigamani (வீரசிகாமணி)
Date of Visit: 23rd January 2015 between 11.30 and 12.30 am.
Category: Early Pandya Rock-cut cave at Veerasigamani
Architecture Style: Early Pandya style


Architecture: The entire rock-cut cave temple is protected by the perimeter wall on three sides. There is a nandhi mandapam with nandhi statue (later addition). The rock-cut cave has a facade, mukha mandapam and the sanctum.
Nandhi Mantapa
Cave covered with Perimeter wall
The external rock slope outside the cave temple bears two koshtas At the southern part of the koshta bears a Pillaiyar (Vinayaka) bas relief image and the northern part of the koshta contains Vishnu  (doubtful identity) bas relief image.

Pillaiyar in koshta
Vishnu (?) in Koshta

The Facade

The facade measures about 0.60 mts and 4.94 mts in east-west and north-south directions. The facade of the cave has been cut inwards leading to overhanging cornice. The cornice is devoid of any architectural element such as kudu or mini-shrines etc.

Facade of cave: Plinth (Padabandha Adhishtana)
Cave Facade

The facade has 90 cm high platform (padabandha adhishtana) comprised of, from below to top upana, jagati, eight-patta kumuda, kantha and pattika. Above the pattika the mother rock forms the evenly paved upper floor surface.  The facade also bears two pillars in the middle and two pilasters on both sides forming part of the side walls of the mother rock. Pillars and pilasters forming three spaces between the pillars (anganas). The  anganas in the facade are almost equal. The middle angana forms the entrance to the cave with the flight of three-step staircase in middle front of the cave with balustrades on either sides.
Facade of cave: Flight of 3 step staircase
 The pillars are in usual early rock-cut cave style, cubical top and bottom (Brahma kanta) with intermediate octagonal shaft (Vishnu kanta). The upper cubical parts of the pillars facing north and south are adorned with lotus medallions.  The Taranga potikas (fluted corbels) above the pillars and pilasters are molded with a median patta (band). Similar fluted corbel style is seen in later Pallava constructions.
Taranga Potikas (fluted corbels)

The Mukha Mandapa

The rectangular mukha mandapa measures about 5.52mts in north-south and 3.68mts in east-west directions. The front wall to the sanctum has flight of single-step staircase in middle front of the cave with balustrades on either sides. The niches on both sides are arched in the top. The roof and Vajana of the mukha mandapa are damaged.

Two niches, flanked by square pillars, are found at the middle of the each lateral wall (south and north walls) of the mukha mandapa. The niche at the south measuring about 0.79 mts in width and 1.78 mts in height bears the image of a rishi and the locals have identified this as Dharma (Mahabharata).  The niche at the north measuring about 0.91 mts in width and 1.81 mts in height bears the image of a rishi and the locals have identified this as Sahadeva (Mahabharata).  The projecting niche at the rear wall of the mandapa measuring about 0.71 mts in width and 1.41 mts in height bears the image of a rishi and the locals have identified this as Nakula (Mahabharata).

The Sanctum

The sanctum is a rectangular cell with a monolithic Shivalingam with square Avudaiyar. The sanctum is simple and plain and devoid of any ornamentation. The rectangular avudaiyar measures about 1.35mts in width and 1.55mts in length and to a height of 0.66mts and the plinth of the avudaiyar is formed as a padabandha adhishtana with the elements of jagati, kumuda, kantha with pada and flanked by kampa, pattika and upari kampa. The rock cut Vesara bana is 0.59mts height. The gomukha is seen on the northern side of the avudaiyar with a spout like formation.

Sanctum: Monolithic Shivalingam

The Dwarapalakas

The side niches have two dwarapalakas (door guards), one on each side of the doorway. The dwarapalaka in the left niche to the entrance is showing in 'tribhanga' posture one leg bent at the knee another leg resting on the ground and leaning imperiously on a club entwined by a cobra. His head gear is slightly strange - with karantamukuta and beneath his hair cluster fall in beautifully on his shoulders. He appears wearing all the ornaments like necklaces, kankans (forehand armlets),  keyuras (armlets), udara banda (waist belt) etc, are worn by him. The dwarapalaka on the right niche assumes distinctly different pose from the first. He has his left hand resting on his waist and the right hand with bent at the elbow and extending towards his right side. The sacred thread worn by him extends from left shoulder to the right shoulder and the iconography suggesting the date as 7th or 8th century A.D.  His head and trunk slightly bent to exhibit a magical force, and his hair is arranged like a jatamakuta with jata-bhara behind their head. 

Dwarapalaka 1
Dwarapalaka 2

Inscription: A vattezhuthu inscription dated in the 8th regnal year of Sundara Chola Pandya (ARE 1908 : 40) is found on the south facing top square section of the northern pilaster at the mandapam. The inscription speaks about the perpetual lamp donated to this temple.

Inscription

Period: There is no inscription evidence regarding the origin of this cave shrine is traceable. Nevertheless scholars consider the origin as later part of the 7th century A.D. based on the cave architecture and bas relief images.

Getting there

Veerasigamani PIN: 627862, is located in the taluk of Sankarankovil, district of Tirunelveli, in the State of Tamil Nadu. The village lies on the Sankarankovil - Puliangudi road.
Railway station: Kadaynallur Railway station
Airport: Tuticorin Airport- 85 km and Trivandrum International Airport- 100 km

Tirumalapuram Rock-cut cave 

Tirumalapuram Rock-cut cave
Name: Pasupathynathewarar Cave Temple, Tirumalapuram (திருமலாபுரம்)
Date of Visit: 23rd January 2015 between 12.30 and 01.30 pm.
Category: There are two types of monuments (1) North facing rock-cut cave at Tirumalapuram under worship fully or partially and (2) Unfinished rock cut cave on the other side of the hillock which is not under worship.
Hillock: Varanachi Hillock
Architecture Style: Early Pandya style
The rock-cut cave has a facade, mukha mandapam and the sanctum and the cave at the north face of the hillock is excavated about 200 meters above the ground and can be reached by steep flight of steps constructed by Thrissur Circle, ASI.

The Facade

Facade: Tirumalapuram cave

The facade of the rock cut cave abuts the mukha mandapa and measures about 0.90 mts in width in  east-west direction and 5.49mts in length in north-south direction. The mother rock extends from the facade as side walls, floor and cornice. The facade has two pillars in the middle and two pilasters on both ends. The pillars are in usual early rock-cut cave style, cubical top and bottom (Brahma kanta) with intermediate octagonal shaft (Vishnu kanta). Except the southern face all other faces of the upper cubical parts of the pillars are adorned with lotus medallions and resembles with Pallava lotus medallions. The medallion at the north face of the upper square is bound by two circles and there is makara at the center and the inner circle is decorated with kodikarukku. The east face of the upper square pilasters show lotus medallions The Taranga potikas (fluted corbels) above the pillars and pilasters are molded with a median patta (band). Similar fluted corbel style is seen in later Pallava constructions. The potikas hold the uttira and above it vajana is running through out the kapota and extends to the lateral walls, pilasters and extends up to the floor. Above vajana the continuous band of valabi shown. The cornices appear irregularly shaped and the long groove running across the entire length of the facade serves to drain the rain water. The eastern lateral wall measures about 0.64 mts in width and western lateral wall measures about 1.70 mts in width. The floors of the facade and mukha mandapa are evenly leveled.

Taranga Potikas
Lotus Medallion
Makara Medallion
Lotus Medallion

The Mukha Mandapa

The rectangular mukha mandapa measures 5.91mts in north-south and 3.13mts in east-west directions. There is one niche on the eastern wall and three niches on the southern walls.

A koshta, measuring about 1.96 mts in height and 1.00 mts in width, at the centre of the eastern wall bears the bas relief image of Lord Brahma appear in standing posture. His right arm rests on his hip and the left arm holds the dried bottlegourd (சுரைக்குடுக்கை). The right rear arm holds flower and the left arm holds the palm-leaf manuscript. The deity wears jatamakuta, sacred thread (Yagyopavitam), sarapuli, udharabandha, keyura (tollvalai - தோள்வளை), thick bangles and the deity also wears a silk dhoti in pancha-kacha (பஞ்சகச்சம்) style.

Lord Brahma
The southern wall has three koshtas:

The first koshta at southern wall, measuring about 1.86 mts in length, 1.41 mts in width bears the unique dancing bas relief image of Lord Shiva and there are two Buta Ganas standing one on each side. The four armed Lord Shiva appears in chatura-tandavam (சதுர தாண்டவம்) posture (the 107th dance posture in the 108 dance postures of Shiva) with the left foot slightly raised into the air and the right foot firmly placed on the floor. The rear right hand holds the flower; the front right hand is holding the yajnopavita; the front left hand is extended above the shoulder (ardhapataka - அர்த்தபதாகா); and the rear left carries the palm-leaf manuscript. Braided locks are hanging at the back. The hair is dressed high in jatamukuta and bears a crescent moon to the proper left and the skull. He wears a palm-leaf coil as ear-ring at his right ear lobe and the left ear lobe appears long and empty. He also wears  yajnopavita, necklace, udara-bandha, serpentine spiral armlets, forearm band and anklets. The costume consists of short garment worn around the waist with an elaborate girdle decorated with a floral clasp in front. A thin sash runs around his waist. A serpent coils around the waist and thighs. The image, unique piece of its kind, is a very fine example of the early Pandya art. 

Shiva: Chatura Tandava Posture
The gana at the right side of the Lord exhibits the legs and other organs are mostly destroyed. The gana at right, wears karanta makutam (head gear) and palm leaf coil at ear-lobe, appears standing and playing the sirattai kinnari (சிரட்டைக் கிண்ணரி) (traditional Tamil musical instrument) with right hand.

The second koshta at the southern wall, measuring about 1.90 mts in height and 1.40 mts in width, bears four armed Lord Vishnu in standing posture and there are two Buta Ganas standing one on each side.  The rear  right hand holds the conch; the rear left hand carries the discuss wheel; the front left is resting on the waist; and the front right hand displays the palm around the waist. The costume consists of full lenth golden silk garment, pitambara as it is called  around the waist in pancha kacha (பஞ்சகச்சம்) style. He is adorned with ornaments like krita makutam with wheel, makara kundala on ear lobes, sarapali, armlets, fore-arm band, udhara bandha, and yajnopavita,  The Buta ganas (slightly destroyed) are wearing karanta makutam, palm leaf coil and short loin, and showing their faces towards audience and yet appear worshiping the Lord

Lord Vishnu


The third koshta at the southern wall, measuring about 1.68 mts in height and 1.34 mts in width, bears idampuri Pillaiyar appear in maharajaleelasanam. The rear  right hand holds the pasa; the rear left carries the tusk; the front left is resting on the belly; and the front right hand resting on the knee and holding the modhakam. He is adorned with ornaments like karanta makutam, armlets, fore-arm band, udhara bandha, and yajnopavita. The costume consists of small garment around the waist.

Pillaiyar


Sanctum


The sanctum excavated on the western wall, measuring about 0.96 mts in width and 1.66 mts in length, is a rectangular cell with a monolithic Shivalingam with square Avudaiyar (base). The sanctum is simple and plain and devoid of any ornamentation. The plinth (prathivari bandha adhitanam) of the sanctum includes jagathi, vritta kumudham and prathivari elements. There are two niches one on either side of the sanctum entrance. The sanctum entrance is supported by two square pilasters. At the centre of the mukha mandapa floor a monolithic nandhi appear in a ruined state. Traces of early Pandya paintings are seen along prastara. 

Monolithic Nandhi (Ruined)
Monolithic Shivalinga (Avudaiyar / Bana)

The rectangular avudaiyar measures about 1.22mts in width and 1.32mts in length and to a height of 0.63 mts and the plinth of the avudaiyar is formed as a padabandha adhishthana with the elements of upana, jagati, vritta kumuda,  kantha with pada and flanked by kampa, pattika and upari kampa. The rock cut Vesara bana is 0.54 mts height.

Inscription: There is one inscription found on one of the pillars has been assigned to 11th century A.D. Another inscription (dilapidated) of  Pandya King Vallaba Devan (1090-1116 A.D.) noticed on the eastern side of the mukha mandapam records about the gifts including fertile lands with trees, deep wells and tanks to this temple by the king. Reports the royal order issued to the village sabha of Viranarayanamangalam in Thukavur kutram and the nattar of Varanavasipuram.

Inscription 1

Period: The date for this cave is assigned to the second half of the seventh Century A.D. and of Pandya style based on the architecture of the cave and from the images displaying few unique features. This is ascertained by the monolithic Shivalinga - carved out of the base rock, a feature which is not present in the Pallava caves of the same period and the presence of Pillaiyar bas relief.

Festival: A family from Kadampankulam is said to come to the temple every year on Thirukarthigai day and light a deepam with castor oil on a stone pit meant for the purpose. Also there are special pujas on every Pradosham Day and on Annual Tirukarthikai Day and Annual Maha Shivrathri Day.
Present Status: Centrally Protected Monument of National Importance. Preserved and maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India, Thrissur Circle.



The Second cave

The second cave is incomplete and located at the southern face of the hill. We have not visited this cave.

Getting there

Location Sankarankovil Taluk, Tirunelveli district PIN: 627857. The cave temple is 5 km from Kallidaikurichi 48.2 km from Tirunelveli and lies on the Senthamaram - Kallidaikurichi road.

After visiting the Thirumalapuram rock-cut cave we returned to Sankarankoil for lunch. After lunch our next visit will be to Malaiyadikurichi rock-cut cave.

Reference

  1. வீரசிகாமணிக் குடைவரையும் கல்வெட்டுக்களும். தென்மாவட்டக் குடைவரைகள். மு. நளினி, இரா. கலைக்கோவன். டாக்டர். இராசமாணிக்கானார் வரலாற்றாய்வு மையம். திருச்சிராப்பள்ளி. pp. 98 - 106
  2. திருமலாபுரம் குடைவரைகள். தென்மாவட்டக் குடைவரைகள். மு.நளினி, இரா.கலைக்கோவன். டாக்டர்.இராசமாணிக்கானார் வரலாற்றாய்வு மையம். திருச்சிராப்பள்ளி. pp. 106 - 119

Thursday, February 5, 2015

Tirunelveli Region Travelogue (Pandyan Yatra 2015) Part 1: Planning the Site Seminar


@ Kazhugumalai Photo courtesy: Ms Ramamani Jeyaraman
@ Kazhugumalai Photo courtesy: Kishore Mahadevan

@ Kazhugumalai Vettuvankoil Photo courtesy: Kishore Mahadevan
For the last five years, Tamil Heritage Trust (THT), an organization of heritage lovers in Chennai, have been organizing the site seminar every year as annual event. 'Prof Swaminathan mooted and organized the concept of a Site Seminar, to familiarize a few individuals passionately interested in the heritage of the Tamil country, but clueless about where and how to start.'  Table 1 shows the list of site seminars organized by Tamil Heritage Trust.

Table 1. List of Site Seminars Organized by Tamil Heritage Trust

Year
Name of the Site Seminar
Place or Region
State
2010
Mamallapuram Site Seminar Athyanthakaama Ashrama Vijaya
Mamallapuram
Tamil Nadu
2011
Ajanta and Ellora Site Seminar
Paranjothi Yathirai
Ajanta & Ellora
Maharashtra
2012
Mukkudai Yathirai
Pudukkottai District
Tamil Nadu
2013
Site Seminar: Srirangam Tiruvaranga Ulaa
Srirangam
Tamil Nadu
2014
Gurjari Yatra - Gujarat Site Seminar
Gujarat Select Monuments
Gujarat
2015
Pandyan Yatra
Tirunelveli Region Select Monuments
Tamil Nadu


For the sixth site seminar 2015, 'the southern sections of Pandyan territory, centered around Tirunelveli region' was identified as the heritage site for and the Pandyan Yatra was undertaken by a team of 24 members between January 23 Friday and January 27 Tuesday 2015, both dates inclusive. I was one of the fortunate participant of the Pandyan Yatra.

THT's Pandyan Yatra was NOT a religious tour, or a pleasure trip or sightseeing excursion. Instead Pandyan Yatra clearly focused to cover only on art, archaeology, architecture, epigraphy, history, iconography aspects of the monuments.  The purpose of Pandyan Yatra was to intensely explore the heritage of the southern sections of Pandyan territory for deeper understanding the heritage of the region. 

Tirunelveli region was under the rule of the Pandya Dynasty and was known as 'Thenpandiyanadu'. The Imperial Cholas included this region under the province called 'Mudikonda Cholamandalam'. The Madurai Nayakas preferred to call it as 'Tirunelveli Seemai'. The British East India Company formulated the 'Tinnevelly district', which was composed of the present Tirunelveli and Thoothukudi districts and parts of the Virudhunagar and Ramanathapuram districts.

Map of Tirunelveli Region

The region also comprise all five geographical traditions of Sangam Tamil Literature: Kurinji (mountains), Mullai (forest), Marudham (paddy fields), Neithal (coastal) and Palai (desert). Ancient holy hill 'Pothigai,' the abode of Tamil sage Agasthiyar (who developed Tamil language) forms part of this region. The   crawling   clouds  on the Western Ghats, the picturesque Pothigai hills and the Kurtallam water falls are  the  special features which make  Tirunelveli  unique. Tirunelveli region is blessed with the perennial river Thamirabharani - the lifeline of the region and forms the major river basin in this region. The other  streams include Vaippar, Nambiar and Hanumanathi. The fertile land is blessed with lush green paddy fields, coconut groves, banana plantations,  water-falls and palm trees add a picturesque dimension. The region is dotted with many early Pandyan rock-cut caves and well-preserved structured temples built by Pandyas, Cholas and Nayakas.

Since the culturally rich Tirunelveli region is very vast, it is not easy to travel the entire region. Therefore the site seminar set to catch a glimpse of the region's heritage and planned to focus on some specified heritage monuments as shown in Table 2:

Table 2: Itinerary of Pandyan Yatra 2015

Date
Monuments
Region
23 Jan 2015
Kazhugumalai - Jain Monastery,
Kovilpatti Region
Kazhugumalai - Vettuvankoil,
Kazhugumalai - Kazhugachalamurthy Temple
24 Jan 2015
Malayadikurichi Rock cut Cave of Early Pandya
Sankarankovil Region
Thirumalapuram Rock cut Cave of Early Pandya
Singampatti Zamin Palace located near the foothills of Manjolai Estate
Kutraleeswaran Temple and Chitra Sabha - one of five dancing halls of Lord Nataraja
25 Jan 2015
Mannar Koil Rajagoplalaswami Temple. Ashtanga Vimana. 
Ambasamudram Region
Thiruvalivaram Tiruvalisvarar Temple
Brahmadesam Temple
Kallidaikurichi Temples
Ambasamudram Temples,
Thirupudaimarudur Temple
Cheranmadevi Bhakthavatsala Perumal Temple
26 Jan 2015
Tirukurungudi Nambi Temple (108 Divya Desam)
Nanguneri & Tirunelveli Region
Tirunelveli - Palayankottai Museum,
Nellaiappar Temple,
Nanguneri Vanamamalai Perumal Temple
27 Jan 2015
Srivaikuntam Vaikuntanathaswami temple Navatirupati (108 Divya Desam)
Toothukudi Region
Alwartirunagari Temple Navatirupati
(108 Divya Desam)
Tirukolur. Temples

Krishnapuram Temple

Tamil Heritage Trust - Site Seminar itinerary Brochure
Tamil Heritage Trust - Site Seminar itinerary Brochure
Tamil Heritage Trust - Site Seminar itinerary Brochure


The participants were provided with best available information to ensure a successful journey. The Pandyan yatra 2015 was slightly modified from the itinerary shown in Table 2 in terms of timing of visit and few cancellations and additions of places.

The participants organized number of weekend preparatory site seminar meetings on Sundays during 16th November 2014 - 18th January 2015 and invited few persons, who are familiar with these sites, to deliver the series of pre-visit lectures and power-point presentations. The participants also research out  on one or two places of interest and shared information through presentations. 

Arkay Center is conveniently located in Mylapore, and Mr Ramakrishnan has been very kindly hosting preparatory site seminar meeting there. V Chandrasekhar, has very kindly offered his house at "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41 and his residence has often been the venue for most site seminar meetings.. 

Table 3: The preparatory lectures for the Sixth Site Seminar:

Date
Talk on
16.11.2014
History of the Pandyas -Sangam, Early and Imperial by Ramakrishnan at  Arkay Center, Mylapore
30.11.2014
Iraiyanar Agapporul - a book on Tamil grammar, which changed the nature and subjects of Tamil Literature by Badri Seshadri  "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
MaduraiKanchia Sangam era epic that describes the city in that period by Badri Seshadri  "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
14.12.2014
Madurai Sultanate The fall of the Pandyas & Muslim rule in Madurai by Ravishankar Thiagarajan 
"Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
Singing along the Tambraparni - Verses from the Thevaram and Prabhandam by Pradeep Chakravarthi Navneet Krishnan has accompany Pradeep by singing some of these compositions.  "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
21.12.2014
Nanguneri Temple and Vanamamalai Mutt by Deivanayagam   "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
Pandyan Cave Temples & Monoliths by Vijayakumar.S (Poetry in Stone)    "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
11.1.2015
Pandya temples by K.S Sankaranarayanan    "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
Jina Images of Kazhugumalai as seen by Lisa by Ravishankar Thiagarajan    "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
18.1.2015
Nellaiyappar and Kanthimathi Amman Temple by Siva Thiyagarajan and Kishore   "Shrinidhi", 12/1 Reserve Bank Colony MG Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Madras 41
 
The following documents were shared 'Athyanthakama' Yahoo Group:

  1. பாண்டிய நாட்டில் பயணமும் படிப்பும் Kanaka Ajithadoss (Yahoo Group 20.11.2014)
  2. Jaina Images of Kazhugumalai (PDF) shared 

The following documents published elsewhere were included in the Guide 'Pandyan Yantra':
  1. A new Pandya Record and the Dates of Nayanmars and Azhvars  by Nagaswami R
  2. A Brahmadeya Gift by Pandya Arikeari  by Nagaswami R
  3. Kalugumalai: Jain Images by Dr. Lisa N. Owen
  4. Malaiyadikurichi Inscriptions Tell Tales  by Pradeepchakravrthi
  5. Nellaiyappar Temple: Rare kritis by Pradeepchakravrthi
  6. Dakshinamurti on vimanas of Vishnu temples by RKK Rajarajan
  7. நின்றிருந்துகிடந்த நெடியோன் ஜெயமோகன் November 24,2010 (http://www.jeyamohan.in/9346)
  8. ஸ்ரீவைகுண்டம் ஆழ்வார்திருநகரி கிருஷ்ணாபுரம் ஜெயமோகன்
Pandyan Yatra 2015 (Guide Book) THT
This is a travelogue of Pandyan Yatra 2015 covering around 20 heritage monuments in 5 days. Traveling through 'Tirunelveli Seemai' is a fulfilling experience if you are a lover of culture, heritage and history. 'Tirunelveli Seemai' is the heritage land of the south and the cradle of ancient Thamirabharani river line civilization. The Thamirabharani river valley on either side of the river is fertile and there are large acres of lush green paddy fields, coconut groves and banana plantations. The lofty temple towers and the tall and imposing temple walls in the backdrop of majestic and picturesque Western ghats invited us  It gives me inspiration and satisfaction to bring you a travelogue of Pandyan Yatra 2015.


I would like to profusely thank Prof.S.Swaminathan, S/shri Badri Seshadri, R.Gopu, Ashok Krishnaswami, Siva Thiagarajan, Kishore Mahadevan, guest speakers, Kizhakku Pathippagam staff, Temple staff and Priests, ASI staff, participants and all others for contributing to the success of Pandyan Yatra 2015.
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